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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.